5.05.2009

"We wander for distraction, but we travel for fulfillment." -Hilaire Belloc

Easter Break came and went so fast that it almost seems like it didn’t happen. I didn’t have much time to anticipate it’s arrival because I spent the 2 weeks before departure in the library or locked in my room trying to finish 3 hugeeee Uni assignments. I tried to finish them before the trip so that I might not stress during vacation. The work load was too huge and I ended up finishing only ¾ of my work, but when Good Friday came I put my work on the shelf and out of my mind, stuffed my pack, and flew to Cairns!


Cairns is in Northern Queensland, about a 3-hour flight from Sydney. On Friday April 10th Lauren and I anticipated a full day of hell with at least a few hiccups. With my previous travel experiences I made sure to leave for the airport at 10am, a full 4 hours before departure, leaving room for traffic on the bus, train delays, check-in issues, and security lines. Little did we know, Australian airports are heaven on earth compared to American airports. I’ve forgotten what it’s like to not have terrorist threats ruling every step. We were sitting in the Quantas domestic gate by 11:30. Baggage checked and ready to go. I really wish it was that easy at home. Reason #1108 that I love Australia more than the US.



If the ease of travel isn’t enough to convince anyone that Australia > US, then how about the fact that I got a delicious hot meal on the flight (vegetarian catered and all!), hot coffee/tea, and free headphones to watch the in-flight movie. My 5 hour trip from Washington DC to San Francisco didn’t even have peanuts! Step it up, America.

We were safely in Cairns and checked in at our Hostel by 6:00. Cairns is run on tourism, so it is fullll of backpackers. There are about 30 hostels to choose from and with a bit of research we were able to find a hostel for $17/night, including free dinner, where we slept in a 4-person girls-only room. It was a small hostel that was a 10-minute walk from the center of town, but Lauren and I didn’t really care! The owner of our hostel worked the front desk where he checked people in and gave great advice for booking activities in Cairns. We spent our first hours there chatting with him about the best things to do and by the end of the night we had our whole week planned and booked. It was going to be epic…

April 11th
So Saturday morning we woke up at 6:30 and got picked up at 7:10 from the hostel. We were driven up and over the mountain that overlooks Cairns to an adorable horse farm in the bush. This horse farm had a bit more pizzazz then most, for all through its surrounding lands are mud-covered trails that are constantly torn apart by travelers speeding around on little red ATVs. The weather was forecasted to be rainy so Lauren and I took the advice of our hostel owner who had said that ATVing was the most fun that he’d ever had in his life. Lauren and I were itching to get muddy and tear through the woods on our 4-wheelers, so once our group purged the timid drivers from the back of the line we were flying through the mud and laughing the whole way. The guide in the front of the line would go around the mud puddles but I made my own path through the center every time. Whoever happened to be behind me in line got absolutely drenched in mud….it was beautiful! The morning session was a total blast and after a sausage sizzle we were carted back down the mountain and back to Cairns.


The ATV/Horse farm.


We're muddy and happy.




Lauren's shirt is proof that she was behind me as I tore through the puddles.


Lauren and I took the rest of the day to go grocery shopping and relax around the Hostel. That night we went to the Woolshed, the local pub where we had the free dinner vouchers. At dinner we managed to meet a few really great fellow travelers, 2 Germans, and 1 Norwegian, who all provided some great conversations and a fun night that ended at the Cairns "beach".

Our new German friends Justus and Manuel


Manuel and I discovered that we have the same eye color...


We discovered that the YMCA song is an international hit. The entire pub lit up with excitement when it came on. Our Norwegian and German friends knew the YMCA better than Lauren.





The "beach" at Cairns edge is really just quicksand-like mud. Lauren sunk into her thigh and needed to get rescued by Manuel.


Sunday, April 12th- Happy Eastaaaaaaaaahhhh!!!
11am the AJ Hackett bus picked us up for our day at the Bungee Jump site in Cairns. The tower that we jumped off of was the first purpose built bungee tower in the world, with zero injuries or deaths in it’s past. AJ Hackett is from New Zealand, and is one of the first pioneers in the sport of bungee jumping. He has jumping sights all over the world including New Zealand, Macau, Kuala Lumpur, Germany, France, and Bali. The tower overlooks Cairns and a beautiful view of the long coastline, and at its base is a nice building complete with a bar, observation deck, live band, and a pond to dip into on your dive.


The view from the top. This is a stitch of 5 photos. Click on it to see a bigger version...




Another photo stitch. This is the view from the deck.


All morning I waited to have a bit of nervousness in the pit of my stomach. Anticipation is always the best part of an experience, but it was as if I was immune to it. I thought for sure that if I wasn’t feeling it at the bottom while watching others jump that it would hit me as I was being strapped in. Nothing. As I stood on the edge of the platform and looked to the pond 50 meters (165 feet) below me all I could feel was excitement. I’m not really sure where my fear has disappeared to, but as the man behind me said “Okay, Jump!”, there was zero hesitation and I dove straight off into the air. The free fall was a feeling that is so indescribable but leaves you feeling intoxicated with happiness. It is an addicting sensation and I am already looking ahead to a skydiving session in my near future! As I fell closer and closer to the pond I realized that I was not slowing down and with a quick reaction I was able to close my eyes a second before my upper body got dunked in the water. I didn’t think I was going to go under because we were supposed to request the dunk and I had forgotten to mention it during the excitement of getting strapped in. But, the dunk made it all the more epic and I flew back up into the air almost next to the platform I had just jumped from. The view of the Pacific ocean took on a whole new perspective as I bounced through the air. It was so beautiful! I wish that I had photos of my jump because the smile on my face as I flew through the air was in rare form. The weather was going in and out of a heavy downpour of rain and a temporary stop/parting of the clouds all day. I had heard that the view from the top was amazing, so I said to Lauren “I’m praying that the clouds part as I am going up the tower. I don’t care if they close back over me as I’m jumping…I just want it to be pretty when I jump!” Sure enough…the clouds parted for the 20 minutes around my jump. Someone upstairs was listening to me!!

Lauren and I at the top.



I had to take some photos of the action, even if I wasn't in them.




Back in Cairns, a really colorful sunset to say goodbye to Easter!


Monday, April 13th
Another early start with our 6am pickup to go White-water Rafting at the Tully River. The bus ride led us about 2 hours North West into the rainforest that surrounds the river. This rainforest is one of only eleven sites worldwide to fulfill all four of the available criteria that allow inclusion for World Heritage Listing. The criterion for this listing is for the area to show examples of: Major stages in the Earth’s evolutionary history, On-going biological evolution, exceptional natural beauty, and Habitat for threatened species. The most stunning part of this rainforest was the mighty Tully that tears through the center. This river is home to class 3 and 4 rapids and I’m happy to say that we made it out alive with no bumps or bruises. Our boat was the only one that did not overturn or lose a member while making it down the big rapids. I also found out later that the water in the Tully river is home to salt-water crocs who have been known to interfere with some rafting adventures. I most definitely would have had a heart attack if I had seen a 6 foot croc swimming toward our inflatable raft.




Look at Lauren's face in this picture. Epic!


This rapid is where most boats flipped. We had to get inside the boat to stabilize.


Where did the raft go?!


Halfway down the river we pulled over to have a lunch break (another sausage sizzle….of course), but we had to eat in a changing area because the rain that had been coming down all morning continued to fall. We were supposed to be transported to another location to launch the second half of our tour, but we were then rushed back out on to the river because a giant wave of water was apparently heading our way. If we had waited much longer to get back out then the rapids would have been too huge and too dangerous to continue through. We made it out in one piece and passed out from exhaustion on the ride back to Cairns.

At lunch: Our raft team with instructor Vinnie.







Tuesday/Wednesday, April 14th –15th
I had been anticipating this day since the moment I found out I was going to Australia. We were setting sail on a 2 day Great Barrier Reef voyage and at 7am we boarded our new temporary home, the Rum Runner. The 16 passenger boat came equipped with 1 Skipper, 1 Scuba Instructor (in addition to skipper), 2 Hands, and 1 Hostie (hostess/cook). Besides the crew, the passengers were Lauren and Me, two Aussie families of 4- one with young twin girls, a couple from Scotland, and a guy & girl from Holland. The dynamic was a bit strange with the families because I had been so used to young backpackers, but in the end they got along with us young folk quite well.
So we left a rainy and overcast Cairns expecting the same weather on the reef, but within an hour of sailing the clouds parted to reveal stunning blue water illuminated by the sun. The trip out to the reef was about a 2.5-hour ride and everyone on the boat got seasick but me, Eelco the Dutch boy, and the crew. I guess I’m born to be on the ocean?

Leaving Cairns and the bad weather



The waves breaking in the distance is the edge of the reef. The bright green is the reef that sits only a few feet from the top of the water.




My reflection on the deep blue water


"Willie"- A Great Barrier Reef local...
Stay tuned for other pictures of this big guy.



A quick de-brief from Skipper Jason.

We got in the water for our first introductory dive and got comfortable with equalizing and breathing through the tanks. I was immediately hooked. We had the option to go for 3 more dives at an extra cost, but I had zero hesitation- the whole reason I came to the Great Barrier Reef was to dive and explore! We came back up, ate lunch and went back out for a quick snorkel, then loaded the boat to move to our next dive spot. After another 20 minute dive we dropped our gear and went back to the reef to discover more underwater splendor. The different species of fish and the colors of the coral reveal a world so intricate and mysterious to the human form. Nothing in the reef is unimpressive and if it weren’t for my snorkel mask or scuba gear, my mouth would be wide with amazement.






OK! The underwater symbol to show that you're good to go.


Meet Willie, the GBR local.
Apparently this big guy always visits the Rum Runner & other boats and loves to be fed rock-melon (Cantelope).



I finally got to be the Mermaid I always dreamed about.



Lauren and Me (bottom), loving the reef.


Willie again.



Me and a sea cucumber!








Then we anchored the boat and claimed our resting spot in the middle of the reef. The sunset behind us was especially great because there was no land in any direction to stop the light show prematurely, just the horizon line drawn by calm water. After sunset the dinner bell rang and we all piled our plates with delicious food cooked by Beverly, our hostie. The best part of the meal was the fresh fish that had been caught hours earlier by our Skipper.

Lounging at the end of our day


Sunset behind our boat. No land in sight.


Beverly's spread.


The stars above us seemed to multiply in numbers from previous on-land stargazing nights. I was exhausted from this long day so I headed for bed but when I made my way down to the cabin it was so stuffy that I could hardly breathe. I grabbed my mattress pad and seized a piece of open deck space where I was to set up camp. Sleeping on the deck in the middle of the Great Barrier Reef was an experience that I will never ever forget. I was so close to the edge of the boat that when I would wake up in the middle of the night to the boat gently rocking side to side, the only thing I could see was the moon’s reflection on the water. Getting nearly stepped on woke me up for good and when I got up to see what the fuss was about I was happy to have my Nikon at arms length. The sun was rising directly opposite from where I had last seen it set. Orange light poured over the water and the clouds turned a pink color that sat beautifully next to the blue sky. I can think of no better way to start the day.



An hour later we were at a new spot on the reef and I was scuba diving through caves made of coral and seeing things I could never dream up…and this was all before breakfast. The day moved forward, we did another dive, totaling 4 for the whole trip, and some more snorkeling sessions as well. The best moment of this trip was stumbling across a lazy sea turtle munching on the reef for brekky and getting to pet him as he continued on, un-phased. On every dive we saw Finding Nemo characters whose personalities proved to correspond perfectly to the movie. I’m dying to watch it again!

We found something cool....


We found Nemo in his anemone!!
My finger is the one on the top.





Marieke, Lauren, and Me on the ride home.


Land Ho!



One of my fellow sailors


In the end, this was the most memorable two days of my entire life. I get to tick off a biggie on my bucket list and I have some really great pictures to remember it by. There are rumors circulating that the reef will be closed to all human interaction within the next 5-10 years because of the drastic amounts of bleaching that is happening. In my heart I know I will never again get the opportunity to see the reef as I just have, so I thank my lucky stars to have had an experience like this. It was hands down the coolest thing I’ve ever done or seen.


Thursday/Friday, April 16th -17th
Cairns' location makes for a diverse trip because on one side sits the Great Barrier Reef and to the other is the vibrant Daintree Rainforest. Lauren and I set out another two day adventure, but this time we would be sleeping under a canopy of leaves instead of stars. On the first day of our expedition we saw a number of key attractions in warp speed. Our tour guide had packed so much stuff into one day that we had a minimal amount of time at each place, but there was just enough time to soak it all in. There was so much beauty seen, so to accurately explain my day I’ll use pictures…

Hiking through the rainforest to get to the Mossman Gorge.


Mossman Gorge



Bushwalking through the Daintree Rainforest.

These next photos were all taken in a Wildlife Refuge that was located near Port Douglas.

A Cassowarys are endangered so througout Queensland rainforest areas you can see roadsigns warning drivers to slow down and keep their eyes peeled for these giant birds. Click HERE for an example.


Salt Water Crocs, Queensland's deadliest predator.




Different species of crocidile and not as dangerous.

The Cookland Orchid- Queensland's State flower



Cookaburra


Momma and her Joey!
This literally made my trip... I was sooo excited to meet these little roos.



I was reaaaally happy.


About to cross the Daintree River. This ferry is the only way to cross into the rainforest and it stops at 8pm every night. If anyone needs to cross for medical reasons they must use the emergency helicopter that sits at the water's edge. Also, on the other side there is no electricity system so all residents must use generators for power.


Walu Wugirriga
The mouth of the river on the right is the one that we just crossed.




Late afternoon bushwalk through the rainforest in Cape Tribulation, our night's resting spot.


The local swimming hole where we took a dip after bushwalking. The best part was the rope swing!

After the long day, we made it back to our rainforest hostel and layed down at 7:30pm for what we planned to be a quick evening nap. The level of our exhaustion took us by extreme surprise when we woke up at 8am the next morning in the same position. Our bodies were happy and refuelled, and we were ready for another 3 full days in Queensland!

Rainforest Day 2: Cape Tribulation
This was a 10 minute walk from where we spent the night.


At the Cape Trib overlook with our new friends from Canada and Holland.


New mate we made at Cape Trib.


I love my life!


PK's Jungle Village: The hostel in the Rainforest


Lauren graciously using her hand for a size comparison...


....of a GIANT spider. These are everywhere in Queensland.


After we left our hostel we stopped back on the Daintree River for a Croc Cruise where we rode around searching for these guys. We saw about 5 in various places, all laying in the sun to warm up.

This little guy also joined us on our cruise.


Our rainforest adventure came to an end but our day did not. That night we met up with the Rum Runner crew at the Woolshed, where Skipper treated us to some pizza and beer. Perfect Friday night, if you ask me!

The Rum Runners!
Bev the Hostie on the left end and the deck-hand, Amile, on the right end.

Look who we found!! Dan from Newcastle.
You know you are really at home in a new country when you run into multiple people you know in another state. This night we found 5 people we knew, all of whom have nothing to do with each other...


We are really loving this vacation from our vacation.

Saturday, April 18th
Our long and exciting week ended in the best way possible: a day of nothing. We planned to have nothing planned. The best part of a vacation is getting that chance to relax and although our week was extremely fun, it was far from relaxing. So Lauren and I slept in and leisurely made our way to the Lagoon. Cairns doesn't have a nice beach access within walking distance, so the city built a nice public lagoon that sits at the end of their main street in downtown. We layed by the pool with water, an apple, sunscreen, and a book...it was perfect. After a few hours a street festival was set up at the waters edge complete with live music and local-made jewelry and crafts. I found myself a great shell necklace that will forever remind me of this incredible vacation and the way Australia has made me feel really alive for the first time.

The Cairns Lagoon

Sunday, April 19th
All good things come to an end and Sydney was calling us home. I have to admit that even through the adventures, I was excited to rest my head in my bed once again. The best part about living in Australia is that "going back to the real world"= Sydney. How did I ever get this lucky?

Bye Great Barrier Reef!

In every trip that I've made in my life I have found something within myself that I never before knew existed. It's like a light turns on in a compartment of my heart, opening it to exploration. I am reminded through each experience that I am still growing every day and molding into the real me. This trip helped me to learn the art of going with the flow, not stressing, and letting myself enjoy the little things. In comparison to others, my travel experience is lacking, but I pride myself in the growth that comes in each adventure. My love for travel is ingrained in my soul and trips like this make me excited about my future and all that it holds. Life is filled with mystery, much like any trip. You may think you have it planned, but you really don't know who you will encounter or where you will end up. Stay open to everything that is presented to you and always remember to have fun.



So to you, my loves back home:
Remember to live your life like a trip. Enjoy every bit!
And as always.... I never stop thinking about or missing you.


1 comment:

deepsnowgoodtimes said...

holy shit Laura! Best post yet. Your bungee tower photo made me feel like I was really looking up at it. Sunrise on the Great Barrier Reef? You gotta be kidding me. Putting all envy aside I gotta say that you are inspiring me to get off my ass and see the world in a new way every day. thanks. keep it coming!